Saturday 9 January 2010

Wed 30th Dec 2009 - Leg 4 : Codicote to St Albans - 12.6 miles

The intrepid four of Sandra Scott, David Izod, John Kelly and Jim Webb set off at 8.00 from a very wet Royston to travel to St Albans to drop off a car and then on to Codicote to start what was to be the longest leg so far executed. The promised weather was rain with possibly snow later. By the time we reached St Albans the rain had stopped and from then to the end of the walk more rain came off the trees than from the overcast sky. Unlike the preceding day the walk proved to be good underfoot with mainly hard tracks on country estates, golf courses and meadows. As the latter had not been ploughed up by horses the result was a pleasant but long stroll.


The first 1.8 miles of the walk was through Codicote via Codicote Bottom Farm to Ayot House. On route we passed along an avenue of trees with a bird box on every tree on our left and were greeted by a large family of Long Tailed Tits. Ayot St Lawrence is a very interesting village with a lovely pub, the Brocket Arms, George Bernard Shaw's House, owned by the National Trust, and the summer house where he wrote many of his plays. The queen Anne style Ayot House in Tudor times was owned by William Parr the brother of Catharine Parr, Henry the VIII sixth and surviving wife. The old parish church shown was pulled down by Sir Lionel Lyde, a later owner of the house, and replaced with the classical building shown. We were closely attended here by a lovely tortoise shell cat as we took our morning break.

The walk through the Latimer Estate woods and fields and via a golf course, privately owned by a Japanese company, to Wheathampstead was particularly pleasant. See Photo 3. As you can see we had to negotiate the water at ford over the river Lee. (Photo 4) The Nelson pub is now closed so we passed on to Coleman Green via the prehistoric earthworks of Devils Dyke. (Photos 5 & 6) The earthworks is part of an iron age settlement of the Belgae tribe who ruled large parts of Hertfordshire and were conquered by Julius Caesar in 54 BC. If you walk through the bottom of the dyke as we did you climb the steps to exit and at the road turn left. On reaching Coleman Green we dropped in to the John Bunyan pub (Photo 7) for a warm by the fire and a welcome pint. Mine host and the locals were very hospitable and contributed to our Polio Plus funds and the food looked good. Just north of the pub is a house chimney stack where John Bunyan preached. The house was demolished in 1877.( 5.5 miles)

A short break was made on route to Sandridge for lunch. The stone church in the this village is the oldest in Hertfordshire and there are several interesting epitaphs to be found in the church yard (7.8 miles)


From here we walked onto Childwick Green. The gatehouse to the estate on the A1081 is a magnificent Victorian edifice (9.6 miles). (Photo 8) You walk through the gate and up the beautiful rhododendron drive to the model village of Childwick Green. The village which was built over 100 years ago for the farm workers is well worth exploring. See Photos 9&10.


The Childwickbury Estate and Manor House (Photo 11) has a very interesting history from the 13th Century when it belonged to St Albans Abbey to the present date it has passed through several hands. It went from monks to medieval knights, the Cavendish family, it had links through its owners to Ayot St Lawrence in Elizabethan times, the Toumlin's, a Victorian merchant shipping family built the village, the founder of Maples in Tottenham Court Road started breeding horses and Jack Joel a diamond and gold merchant built up a stud farm, which became one of the largest in the world. The stud farm survives to this date but the estate has been split up. One of the most recent owners of the Manor House was the film director Stanley Kubrick.

After a pleasant walk through the Estate we reached the brow of a hill to see St Albans and the cathedral, our ultimate destination, ahead. The last climb up the hill reminded us all how foot weary we were after the two day 24.4 mile hike. ( Photo 12)



Jim Webb